Very simple stripe summer cotton beanie!

This cotton hat is very simple and even beginner can make this cool colorful hat)))

 Sizes to fit Toddler 1-3 yrs, Child 5-8 yrs, or Adult. Made in Lily Sugar 'n Cream on size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) crochet hook.

MEASUREMENTS
To fit Toddler 1-3 yrs (Child 5-8 yrs-Adult).
MATERIALS: Lily® Sugar ’n Cream (Solids: 50 g/1.75 oz or Ombres and Prints 42.5 g/1.5 oz)
TODDLER VERSION 23743 (Summer Splash) 1 ball
KIDS VERSION
Contrast A (00056 Yellow) 1 ball
Contrast B (13628 Hot Orange) 1 ball
Contrast C (13712 Hot Green) 1 ball
Contrast D (13740 Hot Pink) 1 ball
ADULT VERSION 23741 (Playtime) 2 balls
Size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
GAUGE: 14 sc and 15 rows = 4 ins [10 cm].
INSTRUCTIONS
STRIPE VERSION
With A, ch 4. Join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
1st rnd: Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join B with sl st to first sc.
2nd rnd: With B, ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join C with sl st to first sc. 12 sc.
3rd rnd: With C, ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join D with sl st to first sc. 18 sc.
4th rnd: With D, ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join A with sl st to first sc. 24 sc.
5th rnd: With A, ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join B with sl st to first sc. 30 sc.
Last 4 rnds form Stripe Pat.
Keeping cont of Stripe Pat, inc 6 sts on every row, as before to 48 (54-60) sts, then every following alt row to 60 (66-72) sts.
Cont in Stripe Pat, work 9 (10-12) rows even.
Next rnd: With appropriate color, working from left to right instead of right to left as usual, work 1 reverse sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
PLAIN VERSION
Work as given for Stripe Version, omitting reference to color changing.

This pattern from
http://www.sugarncream.com/search.php?pspt=g&advps=y&cps=21191

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

 

Crocodile Stitch Hat pattern

This Stitch is very popular now and for sure will give absolutely unique look!... I was searching fro it long time))))....

 

Size small to medium/ if you want a larger hat use a larger hook

Main color approx 100 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc foundation row= half double crochet foundation row

Fpdc= front post double crochet crocodile st, Special st see note

Dc= double crochet

Skill= Intermediate

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

You will need to know how to make a hdc foundation row prior to beginning your hat.

Your hat will begin at the bottom of the hat edge

Special st: the crocodile st is worked over the 2 dc’s that are made together in the 1 dc. 5 fpdc are worked around the 1^st dc, then another 5 fpdc worked around the 2^nd dc. To work your 1 st, 5 fpdc you must turn your working piece side ways to the right, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the top of the post downwards. When working the other side, you will turn your working piece side ways to the left, so you will work your 5 fpdc side on from the bottom of the post and upwards

 

Row 1: make a hdc foundation row of 72, sl st to form a circle into the top of the ch of the first hdc (72 hdc)

Picture, should be set up row 2

Set up Round:

Row 2: ch 4, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch1, skip 2 hdc’s, *work 1 dc in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s, work 2 dc’s in next hdc, ch 1, skip 2 hdc’s* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join round (12 x 1dc, 12 x 2 dc’s)

Pattern Round:

Row 3: work 1 sc in same space as join,  work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the sc space to join round

Set up Round:

Row 4: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 1, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 1* repeat from *to* to end, do not join, see next row

Picture should be set up round 4

Pattern Round:

Row 5: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Special note: the pattern of the hat does begin to tighten up by this stage, so you will be chaining 2 now instead of 1:

Set up Round:

Row 6: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2,  *work 2 dc in the sl st space, ch 2, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, ch 2* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 7: repeat Row 5:

Set up Round:

Row 8: Repeat Row 6:

Continue working in pattern sequence until your work measures approx 5.5 inches long, ending on a pattern row

Decreasing for the crown of the hat: You will not be making a ch 1 or ch 2 for the first decrease row:

Set up Round: Decrease: decrease is made by omitting the ch 2

Row 1: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, *work 2 dc in the sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,* repeat from *to* to end,

Pattern Round:

Row 2: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Decreasing for this row: If we think of our pattern st as a clock, we have 12 crocodile stitches around, we will make our decrease in the set up row at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions = 2 decreases:

Set up Round: Decrease

Row 3: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 5 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 2 more times

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 4: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 5: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s, work 2 dc in the sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 4 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s), 1 more time

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 6: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 2 decreases

Row 7: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), (work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s),3 times, work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work 1 dc in the centre space of the 10 fpdc’s,

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 8: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space

Set up Round: Decrease = 3 decreases

Row 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in same space as ch 3, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this), work 2 dc in the next sl st space, work a dc decrease in the space of the next 2, 10 fpdc’s (you will be skipping over the sl st space as you do this)

Pattern Round: sl st into the dc decrease as normal

Row 10: do not join, go straight into the pattern stitch thus so, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, *work a sl st into the next dc, work 5 fpdc down the next dc, work 5 fpdc up the next dc, work a sl st into the next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st into the ch 1 space ( 3 crocodile st’s only), break off yarn leaving a tail to sew opening closed, turn hat in side out and thread around opening then pull thread closed.

You will need to sew up the small gap in the beginning hdc foundation row as well

 Crochet Baby Petal Beanie Tutorial - Crocodile Scale Stitch - Part 1 of 7

 

This pattern from

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.ca

 

 

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

 

 

 

Wheel Stitch Crochet Hat Free Pattern

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

The wheel stitch looks awesome in two colors! This hat will be perfect for the spring.

 

Main color approx 50 gm’s , alternating color approx 25 gm’s

Hook size 4.00 mm. US G/6

Yarn, 8 ply. US 4 ply

US terms used through out pattern

St’s used:

Sl st = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc= double crochet

Special st see note

Skill= beginner +

Time=leisurely 4 hours

PLEASE READ ALL NOTES:

Special notes: You will need the basic dc crown pattern to begin making your hat, which is in written form and a video tutorial, located at this link.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2011/07/crochet-basic-dc-crown.html

To make the small size hat, you will need the small 60 dc crown.

To make the larger hat size, you will need the large 72 dc crown.

Pattern is quite repetitive, so you will get the hang of it in no time

Special st’s: 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 dc= yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (5 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (6 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (7 loops on hook), yo hook insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, (8 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 8 loops on hook.

Complete your basic dc crown

Pattern rows:

             

Row1: Join in alternating yarn to top of ch 3 space with a sl st, ch 3, work 2 more dc’s in same space as ch3, skip 2 dc’s, sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* work 7 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc’s, work 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, work 4 more dc’s in same space as beginning ch3, sl st into top of ch 3 to join round, break off and secure yarn

Row 2: Join in alternating yarn to any 4^th dc of the 7 dc group, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3, *work 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 unfinished dc’s over the next 7 st’s, ch 3,*  repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Row 3: Join in alternating yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 sc in same space, work 7 dc into the joining space of the 7 dc’s on previous row, *work 1 sc into the next sc, work 7 dc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st in to beginning sc to join, break off and secure yarn

Rows 2 to 3 form hat pattern: *repeat row 2 then repeat row 3* alternatively for height desired, then follow hat edge instruction 

Hat edge: Scallop                                      Straight

  
 HDC Hat Edge Below:

Hat edge:

Option 1:

Continue working pattern until hat height reaches approx 11 inches, finishing on a row of you choice, row 3 will give you a straight edge, row 2 will give you a scalloped hat edge

Option 2:

Continue working in pattern until hat height reaches approx 9 inches, finishing pattern on a row 2.

Row 1: with yarn of your choice, join in yarn to same space as the sl st, sl st and ch 1 to join, work 1 hdc in same space as join, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, *work 1 hdc in the next sc, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space, work 1 hdc into the joining space of the previous 7 dc’s, work 2 hdc in ch 3 space,* repeat from *to* to end sl st in to beginning hdc to join,

Row 2: ch 1, work 1 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in to beginning hdc to join

Row 3: repeat row 2 for hat height desired or for hat height of approx 11 inches

Finish off hat sew in all loose ends

 Clare Sullivan, video tutorial, thank you Clare.

The pattern from

 

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.ca/2011/08/crochet-catherine-wheel-hat.html

Grey Town Hat Beanie Free Pattern

Very cute beanie with interesting pattern...

 

MATERIALS: Columbia-Minerva REVERIE (1 oz balls): 2 balls (Color A) Columbia-Minerva CAMELOT (1 oz balls): 1 ball (Color B) "Boye" or "Diana" Crochet Hook Size G Gauge: 1 pattern measures 1-1/2" Note: Hat is worked with 1 end each of colors A & B held tog. ___Row 1: Ch 63. Starting in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc in each ch; ch 1, turn: 62 sc. ___Row 2: 1 sc in each sc, ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 2 twice more. Work in pattern as follows: ___Row 1: 1 sc in first sc, skip 1 sc, 3 dc in next sc, * ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next ch, skip 1 sc, 3 dc in next sc, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. ___Row 2: 1 sc in first dc, 3 dc in next sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in ch-3 space, 3 dc in next sc, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 2 three more times. ___Row 6: 1 sc in first dc, 2 dc in next sc, * ch 2, 1 sc in ch 3 space, 2 dc in next sc, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. ___Row 7: 1 sc in first dc, 2 dc in next sc, * ch 2, 1 sc in ch-2 space, 2 dc in next sc, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 7 twice more, ch 3, turn. ___Row 10: With ch 3 as first dc, work 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc, * 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, , dc in next sc, repeat from * across, ch 3, turn: 48 dc. ___Row 11: * Holding back last loop of each dc, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, yo and draw through all 3 loops * , repeat from * to * to last st, work last st. 25 sts rem.___Row 12: Repeat from * to * of Row 11: 13 sts rem. Break yarn leaving an end for sewing. With tapestry needle draw end through remaining sts. Gather tightly tog and fasten securely inside then sew back seam.  This pattern from http://web.archive.org/web/20001018180418/http://www.cei.net/~vchisam/groovy/tc-1.html Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

Beige Cable Hat Free Pattern

Cable hat- it is not very easy to make but it is worth it!

This is not a beginner's pattern. This pattern uses front post double and treble crochet (fpdc and fptr) as well as back post double crochet (bpdc) There are several high quality tutorials online of how to complete these stiches, as well as Youtube videos that will walk you through them. It is expected that you know these stitches and are comfortable with them before beginning the pattern.



Items Needed:
4 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn
H and J Hooks or hooks needed to obtain gauge!
Gauge: (With J hook) 4 fpdc across for 3 rows should measure 1" wide and high
Size: Two sizes: Smaller - Heads sized 18-22" (Larger - Heads sized 21-26" in parenthesis)


Cable next 2 fpdc (from row 4) explained below:
fpdc in second fpdc from hook (stitch "2"):

fpdc in skipped fpdc (stitch "1"):

The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 4 (so this is how you should fpdc the next 2 fpdc in round 5):
There will be two stitches in the cable, one going under and one going over, fpdc first in the stitch that passes under the other (the one going from left to right):

Next fpdc in the stitch that passes over the other (the one going from right to left):



Cable next 4 fpdc (from row 7 and onwards) explained below:
fptr in third fpdc from hook (stitch "3"):

fptr in next fpdc (stitch "4"):

fptr in first skipped fpdc (stitch "1"):

fptr in next fpdc (stitch "2"):

The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 7 and onward (so this is how you should fpdc the next 4 fpdc in round 8 and all other rounds after a cable round):
There will be four stitches in the cable, two going under and two going over, fpdc in the first stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "1"):

Next fpdc in the second stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "2"):

Next fpdc in the first stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "3"):

Lastly fpdc in the second stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "4"):




Note: Every round in the pattern (with the exception of the brim) starts with 2 fpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip, ch 2, then fpdc down into the fpdc you slipped to (overtop of the ch 2, ignore the ch 2 from now on, like it doesn't exist). So for example each round would start with slip, ch 2, fpdc down into previous fpdc you slipped in, then fpdc in next fpdc. You'd then continue each row as it's written

With J Hook
1. 14 (16) dc in Adjustable Ring
2. 2 fpdc in every dc: 28(32) stitches
3. *fpdc in next 2 fpdcs, dc in space between the 2nd fpdc and the next* around: 42(48) stitches
4. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in dc, cable next 2 fpdc (fpdc in second fpdc from hook, fpdc in skipped fpdc), bpdc in dc* around: 42(48) stitches
5. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc* around: 42(48) stitches
6. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, 2 fpdc in each of next 2 fpdc (4 fpdc total), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches
7. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, cable next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches
8. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in bpdc*, around: 56(64) stitches
9. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
10. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc, cable over next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc* around: 70(80) stitches
11. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
12. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches
Repeat rounds 10-12 until 1" shorter than desired length

Switch to H Hook
Note: Every round in the brim starts with a bpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip and ch 2, this ch 2 counts as the first bpdc, then fpdc in the next stitch. You'd then continue the row as it's written.

1-5. bpdc, fpdc around: 70(80) stitches
Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

Baby Version A big thanks to diva27406 at diva27406.blogspot.com for these instructions, and for allowing me to post them here!
3 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn
Use the same hooks needed to get the gauge above.


Note: Every round in the pattern (with the exception of the brim) starts with 2 fpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip, ch 2, then fpdc down into the fpdc you slipped to (overtop of the ch 2). So for example each round would start with slip, ch 2, fpdc down into previous fpdc you slipped in, then fpdc in next fpdc. You'd then continue each row as it's written

With H Hook
1. 12 dc in Adjustable Ring
2. 2 fpdc in every dc (24)
3. *fpdc in next 2 fpdcs, 2 dc in space between the 2nd fpdc and the next, fpdc in next 4 fpdcs, 2 dc in space between the 4th fpdc and the next* around (40)
4. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 dcs, cable next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in in next two dc* around (40)
5. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs* around (40)
6. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs* around (40)
7. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, cable next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around (40)
Repeat rounds 5-7 until 1/2" shorter than desired length

Switch to Smaller Hook
1-3. bpdc, fpdc around (40)
Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.


Pattern from
http://www.rheatheylia.com/index.php?page=patterns

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

 

Beanie with butterfy pattern Free

This beautiful butterfly cup is really unique creation. You will look adorable.

SIZES:Woman’s (21 inches)
Tween/Teen’s (16-18 inches)
Baby/Child’s (15-16 inch)

MATERIALS:
Woman’s:Worsted weight yarn, about 2 ounces
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 6 dc = 2 inches

Child’s:Light worsted weight yarn, about 1.5 ounces
G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 7 dc = 2 inches

Baby’s:Sports Weight, about 1 ounce
Size F (4.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 8 dc = 2 inches

All Sizes:Yarn needle


NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the slip stitch tight.
3. All sizes are made with the same pattern. The different yarns and hook sizes make it the different sizes. Yarns I used in developing this pattern: Woman’s Red Heart - Super Saver, Tween/Teen’s - Simply Soft, and Child’s - Red Heart Sport. Made one with Lion Brand Baby Soft and it would fit 0-6 months.

Round 1: Ch 4 and join with a slip stitch in first ch to form ring. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in ring; join in first dc. (12 dc)



Round 2: Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), 2 dc in each st, join in first dc. (24 dc)


Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (24 sc)

Round 4: Ch 3, (do count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, ch 6. *Skip 3 sts, 2 dc in next sc, dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, ch 6. Repeat from * twice. Skip 3 sc and join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (20 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)




Round 5: Ch 3, (do count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 6. *Skip ch 6 loop, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 6. Repeat from * twice. Skip ch 6 loop and join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (28 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)

Round 6: Ch 3, do count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc. * Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 2nd of 3 skipped sc stitches of round 3, ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * twice. Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 2nd of 3 skipped sc stitches of round 3, ch 3. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. (36 dc and 4 butterflies)

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 8 dc. *3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. 3 Sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)

Round 8: Ch 2 (don’t count as first dc, it is just a filler st), dc in same st as join, *Ch 6, skip 7 sc, dc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. Ch 6, skip 7 dc, dc in 8 sc. Join with slipstitch in beginning dc (36 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)

Round 9: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join. *Ch 6, skip ch 6 loop, dc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. Ch 6, skip ch 6 loop, dc in 8 sc. Join with slipstitch in beginning dc (36 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)

Round 10: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join. *Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 6, ch 3, dc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 6, dc in next 8 dc. Join with slipstitch in first dc. (36 dc and 4 butterflies)

Round11: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 8 dc. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)

Round 12: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 8 dc. *Ch 6, skip 7 sts, dc in next 9 dc, repeat from * twice. Ch 6, join with slipstitch in beginning dc (36 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)

Round 13: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 8 dc. *Ch 6, skip ch 6 loop, dc in next 9 dc, repeat from * twice. Ch 6, join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (36 dc and 4 ch 6 loops)

Round 14: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 8 dc. *Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 10, ch 3, dc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. Ch 3, tr around both ch 6 loops into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 10, ch 3, Join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (36 dc and 4 butterflies)

Round 15: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 8 dc. *3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * twice. 3 Sc in ch 3 loop, sc in tr, 3 sc in ch 3 loop. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)
Rounds 16-18: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)

Fasten off and weave in ends

Pattern from
http://suzies-yarnie-stuff.blogspot.ca/

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet

 

Brimmed White Cap Free Crochet Pattern

Wonderful crocheted brim cap is warm and perfect for spring fun times. Brim has a piece of stiffening between its two layers to give it lasting shape.

Download Printable Instructions

Sport a crocheted brim cap that will keep you warm and ready for fun times. Brim has a piece of stiffening between its two layers to give it lasting shape.

Project Number:	LW2519
Designed By:	Sharon Mann
Skill Level:	Easy
Category:	Crochet
Project Type:	Accessories Hats

Supplies:
RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 skein 313 Aran.

Crochet Hook: 5mm [US H-8].
Heavy-weight interfacing or plastic for brim, stitch markers,
yarn needle.

Size:
Cap circumference at bottom edge: 18”

Gauge/Tension:
GAUGE: 16 dc = 4”; 9 rows = 4”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

CAP

Ch 4, slip st in first st to form ring.

Round 1:

Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), work 7 dc in ring, slip st to top of beginning ch to join, place marker for beginning of round – 8 sts.

Round 2:

Ch 3, 2 dc in same space, 3 dc in each st

around, slip st in top of beginning ch – 24 sts.

Round 3:

Ch 3, [(dc and Fpdc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 7 times, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, dc in last st, slip st in top of beginning ch – 32 sts; 8 Fpdc.

Round 4:

Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 here and throughout),

skip next st, [(dc and Fpdc) in next st, ch 1, skip next

st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 7 times, (dc and Fpdc)

in next st, ch 1, skip next st, slip st in top of beginning ch –40 sts.

Round 5:

Ch 3, dc in ch-1 space, dc in next st, *(dc and

Fpdc) in next st, [dc in ch-1 space, dc in next st] twice;

repeat from * 6 more times, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, dc in

ch-1 space st, slip st in top of beginning ch – 48 sts.

Round 6:

Ch 4, skip next st, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next

st, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next

st] twice; repeat from * 6 more times, ch 1, skip next st,

(dc and Fpdc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st, slip st in top of

beginning ch – 56 sts.

Round 7:

Ch 3, *[dc in ch-1 space, dc in next st] twice, (dc

and Fpdc) in next st, dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next st;

repeat from * 6 more times, [dc in ch-1 space, dc in next

st] twice, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, dc in next ch-1 space,

slip st in top of beginning ch – 64 sts.

 

Round 8:

: Ch 4, skip next st, *[dc in next st, ch 1, skip next

st] twice, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st, dc in

next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat from * 6 more times, [dc in

next st, ch 1, skip next st] twice, (dc and Fpdc) in next st, ch

1, skip next st, slip st in top of beginning ch – 72 sts.

Round 9:

Ch 3, *[dc in ch-1 space, dc in next st] 3 times,

Fpdc in next Fpdc, dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next st;

repeat from * 6 more times, [dc in ch-1 space, dc in next

st] 3 times, Fpdc in next Fpdc, dc in next ch-1 space, slip

 

st in top of beginning ch – 72 sts.

Round 10:

Ch 4, skip next st, *[dc in next st, ch 1, skip

next st] 2 times, dc in next st, Fpdc in next Fpdc, ch 1, skip

next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat from * 6

more times, [dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 2 times, dc in

next st, Fpdc in next Fpdc, ch 1, skip next st, slip st in to

of beginning ch – 72 sts.

Rounds 11-15:

Repeat Rounds 9-10, end with Round 9.

Round 16:
Slip st in each st around.

Fasten off.

Brim

 

Top Side

 

Mark 22 sts on front of Cap on Round 16 for Brim.

Row 1:

With right side facing, join yarn in first marked st,

working in front loops only, sc in each next 22 sts.

Row 2:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loops in

next 4 sts on Cap – 26 sts.

Row 3:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loops in

next 4 sts on Cap – 30 sts.

Row 4:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loop in

next st on Cap – 31 sts.

Row 5:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loop in next st on Cap – 32 sts.

Row 6:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loop in next st on Cap – 33 sts.

Row 7:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loop in next st on Cap – 34 sts.

 

Fasten off.

Bottom Side

 

Row 1:

With wrong side facing, join yarn on wrong side of

 

Row 1 of Brim, sc in back loops of first 22 sts.

Row 2:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loops in next 4 sts on Cap – 26 sts.

Row 3:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loops in next 4 sts on Cap – 30 sts.

Row 4:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loop in next st on Cap – 31 sts.

Row 5:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loop in next st on Cap – 32 sts.

Row 6:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in front loop in next st on Cap – 33 sts.

Row 7:

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sc in back loop in next st on Cap – 34 sts.

 

Fasten off.

FINISHING

 

Using Brim as a template, cut a piece of interfacing or

 

plastic to same dimensions. Slip piece in between layers of

 

Brim and sew Brim closed.

Weave in ends.

Pattern from http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns

 

Are you looking for easy to follow quality pattern with plenty step-by-step pictures??? Please visit my store on Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SunnyBunnyCrochet